Just found this in the NY Times online. I'll have to check out some of these offerings in Orlando next time I go down to visit Universal.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
April 1, 2007
36 Hours in Orlando, Fla.
By CHARLES PASSY
ORLANDO may be America's most misunderstood city. Although it's best known as the home of Walt Disney World, Universal Orlando and other theme parks, those attractions have little to do with the brick-lined streets, mossy parks or natural lakefronts that make up the city's historic downtown. (Disney, in fact, isn't even inside the city limits.) This “other” Orlando is often overlooked by tourists, but it offers worthy thrills of a different sort, from Asian dining in lively Little Vietnam to an evening of improvisational comedy. It's also an Orlando with a sense of history, pride (as a hub for Florida's citrus industry) and urban sophistication, as evidenced by everything from an organic teahouse to a vibrant gay scene.
Friday
5 p.m.
1) LAKESIDE WINE
For a good introduction to Orlando's grown-up side, take a seat at the Eola Wine Company (500 East Central Boulevard, 407-481-9100; www.eolawinecompany.com), a wine bar and store at the edge of Lake Eola, the city's most prominent body of water. It has an urban-chic feel, with polished wooden surfaces and stylish wine racks. But the real attraction is the more than 70 selections by the glass, split among New and Old World wines. Try one of the wine flights, perhaps Bubbles ($15), which features sparkling wines from France, California and Spain. The bar also offers cheeses and light snacks, including a first-rate sun-dried tomato cheese spread ($7).
7 p.m.
2) VIETNAMESE EXPO
Some cities have Chinatowns. Orlando has Little Vietnam, home to a large Vietnamese population that began arriving in the 1970s. The neighborhood, north of downtown along East Colonial Drive and North Mills Avenue, has lots of cheap and casual restaurants where you can feast on banh-mi (an Asian sandwich), shrimp rolls and pho (beef noodle soup). Two of the most popular are Little Saigon (1106 East Colonial Drive, 407-423-8539; Vietnamese Restaurants, Freshest Vegetables, Top 50 Restaurants, Little Saigon Restaurant, Orlando, FL) and Anh Hong (1124 East Colonial Drive; 407-999-2656). Little Saigon is the more formal of the two, but it's hardly fancy; Anh Hong has the look of a small Asian luncheonette. At both places, dinner will set you back a mere $10 to $20 person. You can also stock up on hard-to-find Asian ingredients, like tamarind candy and dried mushrooms, at neighborhood markets. One of the largest is Dong A. Corporation (816 North Mills Avenue, 407-898-9227).
10 p.m.
3) LATE-NIGHT LAUGHS
The spirit of improv lives at the Sak Comedy Lab (380 West Amelia Street, 407-648-0001; www.sak.com), a 200-seat theater in, of all places, the base of a parking garage. Anyone who has seen the television show “Whose Line Is It Anyway?” knows the drill: a troupe of comedians spontaneously create skits based on audience suggestions. (Indeed, one of the show's stars, Wayne Brady, is a Sak alumnus.) To get the crowd warmed up, Tootsie Rolls are tossed into the audience. And a box is placed over the heads of performers or audience members who say something too risqué, in scarlet-letter fashion. Friday night performances ($15) run from 8 to 9:30 and 10 to 11:30.
Saturday
9 a.m.
4) SOULFUL BREAKFAST
For a classic Southern breakfast served with a side of local history, start your day at Johnson's Diner (595 West Church Street, 407-841-0717; www.johnsonsdiner.com), a fixture in Orlando's sizable African-American community for more than two decades. Soul food doesn't get much better than the fish and grits, fried whiting with perfectly buttery grits ($5.25). Although Johnson recently moved to a new location — the ground floor of a gleaming retail and apartment complex in the hard-scrabble Parramore area — the tablecloths are still vinyl, it's still decorated with portraits of prominent black Americans like Ray Charles, and residents still linger and gossip.
10:30 a.m.
5) HISTORY BEYOND MICKEY
For those who think the history of Orlando begins and ends with Mickey Mouse, a visit to the Orange County Regional History Center (65 East Central Boulevard, 407-836-8500; The Orange County Regional History Center - Downtown Orlando's Museum) is in order. The main exhibit traces 12,000 years of life in Central Florida, from the days when American Indians roamed the land to the advent of the citrus industry. And, yes, it also details how Disney transformed Orlando — for better and worse. In a 1927 courthouse, the museum also has rotating exhibits, including one on the Civil War (running through May 6) that features the desk on which Abraham Lincoln drafted the Emancipation Proclamation. Admission is $10.
12:30 p.m.
6) SCULPTURE, GLASS AND MORE
The city's budding art scene has a new home at the CityArts Factory (29 South Orange Avenue, 407-648-7060; www.dadorlando.com). Housed in a 1917 theater, the cultural center, which opened last year, has five light-filled galleries, a performance space and an artist's studio, all under one roof. As the galleries are still finding their groove, a couple stand out. The Zulu Exclusive Gallery (407-228-1747; Home - ZuluOrlando) specializes in a primitive-gone-modern school of African sculpture known as Shona. And Keila Glassworks (407-590-3901; Keila Glassworks) has honed a unique style of groovy shapes and sensual colors; many of the pieces are created in the studio and sold in the adjoining gallery.
2 p.m.
7) A SPOT OF TEA
Even if you're not into eating sprouts or saving the planet, there's plenty to appreciate at the Dandelion Communitea Cafe (618 North Thornton Avenue, 407-362-1864; www.dandelioncommunitea.com). There is the funky, artsy décor with hand-painted chairs and fabric-covered ceiling. There's the menu, which includes the outstanding Happy Hempy Hummus ($6), topped with hemp seeds, and an upscale version of a Fluffer Nutter sandwich ($7.50), made with almond butter and served on toasted sourdough bread. And finally, there's the tea service ($2.50 to $3.50), with an amazing assortment of green, black, white and herbal teas, with names like Morockin' Mint and Don't Be Chai.
4 p.m.
8) LITERARY BREAK
In Thornton Park — an old pedestrian-friendly neighborhood in downtown Orlando — Urban Think! (625 East Central Boulevard, 407-650-8004; www.urbanthinkorlando.com) is the kind of independent bookstore that, sadly, is a vanishing species. It has a smart selection of children's books, hard-to-find magazines and gay fiction, and the comfy chairs make for a welcome midday break. Afterward, take a leisurely stroll through the area, and pop into boutiques like Zou Zou (2 North Summerlin Avenue, 407-843-3373), which carries women's designer clothing, or a wine bar like Dexter's (808 East Washington Street, 407-648-2777; www.dexwine.com).
7 p.m.
9) A PRESCRIPTION FOR DINNER
Residents are still buzzing about Doc's Restaurant (1315 South Orange Avenue, 407-839-3627; www.docsrestaurant.com), a sophisticated addition to the city's otherwise ho-hum dining scene. A soaring space with wood tones and polished concrete floors, it is partly owned by a physician (hence the name), but the real attraction is Neil Connolly, a former chef for the Kennedy family (his cookbook “In the Kennedy Kitchen” has just been published; DK Publishing, $35). The eclectic menu includes a lobster stew ($8 a cup), buttery sushi ($15 for a “tuna snowball” appetizer) and filet mignon ($35) — all executed with contemporary flair.
10 p.m.
10) TAKING IT TO THE BANK
Forget Downtown Disney. The real late-night scene is in downtown Orlando, an emerging hot spot with clubs that cater to a young, party-loving crowd. For something on the more grown-up side, step downstairs to Tanqueray's (100 South Orange Avenue, 407-649-8540). The popular nightspot is housed in a former bank vault and has the secluded feel of a speakeasy. And true to the establishment's name, you can order a martini with Tanqueray gin ($7). The club also plays host to local bands — mostly with a rock or bluesy vibe — on weekends.
Sunday
10 a.m.
11) LAKESIDE STROLL
Sure, you can set sail at Lake Eola. But instead of renting one of the swan-shaped paddleboats, you might be better off walking the lake's nearly milelong perimeter, taking in the serene beauty of the urban greenspace, which includes an amphitheater and a children's playground. On Sundays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., check out a small farmers' market on the south side, where vendors sell fresh-brewed coffee, fruits, vegetables and baked goods.
Noon
12) AN ARTFUL CONCLUSION
No visit to the “other” Orlando would be complete without a stop at the Mennello Museum of American Art (900 East Princeton Street, 407-246-4278; www.mennellomuseum.org; admission $4). The small lakeside museum lays claim to a big treasure: the largest collection of works by the folk artist Earl Cunningham, whose colorful paintings on masonite display a kind of modernist passion. The serenely illuminated galleries are as far removed from the hustle and bustle of the theme parks as you can imagine.
36 Hours in Orlando, Fla. - New York Times
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
April 1, 2007
36 Hours in Orlando, Fla.
By CHARLES PASSY
ORLANDO may be America's most misunderstood city. Although it's best known as the home of Walt Disney World, Universal Orlando and other theme parks, those attractions have little to do with the brick-lined streets, mossy parks or natural lakefronts that make up the city's historic downtown. (Disney, in fact, isn't even inside the city limits.) This “other” Orlando is often overlooked by tourists, but it offers worthy thrills of a different sort, from Asian dining in lively Little Vietnam to an evening of improvisational comedy. It's also an Orlando with a sense of history, pride (as a hub for Florida's citrus industry) and urban sophistication, as evidenced by everything from an organic teahouse to a vibrant gay scene.
Friday
5 p.m.
1) LAKESIDE WINE
For a good introduction to Orlando's grown-up side, take a seat at the Eola Wine Company (500 East Central Boulevard, 407-481-9100; www.eolawinecompany.com), a wine bar and store at the edge of Lake Eola, the city's most prominent body of water. It has an urban-chic feel, with polished wooden surfaces and stylish wine racks. But the real attraction is the more than 70 selections by the glass, split among New and Old World wines. Try one of the wine flights, perhaps Bubbles ($15), which features sparkling wines from France, California and Spain. The bar also offers cheeses and light snacks, including a first-rate sun-dried tomato cheese spread ($7).
7 p.m.
2) VIETNAMESE EXPO
Some cities have Chinatowns. Orlando has Little Vietnam, home to a large Vietnamese population that began arriving in the 1970s. The neighborhood, north of downtown along East Colonial Drive and North Mills Avenue, has lots of cheap and casual restaurants where you can feast on banh-mi (an Asian sandwich), shrimp rolls and pho (beef noodle soup). Two of the most popular are Little Saigon (1106 East Colonial Drive, 407-423-8539; Vietnamese Restaurants, Freshest Vegetables, Top 50 Restaurants, Little Saigon Restaurant, Orlando, FL) and Anh Hong (1124 East Colonial Drive; 407-999-2656). Little Saigon is the more formal of the two, but it's hardly fancy; Anh Hong has the look of a small Asian luncheonette. At both places, dinner will set you back a mere $10 to $20 person. You can also stock up on hard-to-find Asian ingredients, like tamarind candy and dried mushrooms, at neighborhood markets. One of the largest is Dong A. Corporation (816 North Mills Avenue, 407-898-9227).
10 p.m.
3) LATE-NIGHT LAUGHS
The spirit of improv lives at the Sak Comedy Lab (380 West Amelia Street, 407-648-0001; www.sak.com), a 200-seat theater in, of all places, the base of a parking garage. Anyone who has seen the television show “Whose Line Is It Anyway?” knows the drill: a troupe of comedians spontaneously create skits based on audience suggestions. (Indeed, one of the show's stars, Wayne Brady, is a Sak alumnus.) To get the crowd warmed up, Tootsie Rolls are tossed into the audience. And a box is placed over the heads of performers or audience members who say something too risqué, in scarlet-letter fashion. Friday night performances ($15) run from 8 to 9:30 and 10 to 11:30.
Saturday
9 a.m.
4) SOULFUL BREAKFAST
For a classic Southern breakfast served with a side of local history, start your day at Johnson's Diner (595 West Church Street, 407-841-0717; www.johnsonsdiner.com), a fixture in Orlando's sizable African-American community for more than two decades. Soul food doesn't get much better than the fish and grits, fried whiting with perfectly buttery grits ($5.25). Although Johnson recently moved to a new location — the ground floor of a gleaming retail and apartment complex in the hard-scrabble Parramore area — the tablecloths are still vinyl, it's still decorated with portraits of prominent black Americans like Ray Charles, and residents still linger and gossip.
10:30 a.m.
5) HISTORY BEYOND MICKEY
For those who think the history of Orlando begins and ends with Mickey Mouse, a visit to the Orange County Regional History Center (65 East Central Boulevard, 407-836-8500; The Orange County Regional History Center - Downtown Orlando's Museum) is in order. The main exhibit traces 12,000 years of life in Central Florida, from the days when American Indians roamed the land to the advent of the citrus industry. And, yes, it also details how Disney transformed Orlando — for better and worse. In a 1927 courthouse, the museum also has rotating exhibits, including one on the Civil War (running through May 6) that features the desk on which Abraham Lincoln drafted the Emancipation Proclamation. Admission is $10.
12:30 p.m.
6) SCULPTURE, GLASS AND MORE
The city's budding art scene has a new home at the CityArts Factory (29 South Orange Avenue, 407-648-7060; www.dadorlando.com). Housed in a 1917 theater, the cultural center, which opened last year, has five light-filled galleries, a performance space and an artist's studio, all under one roof. As the galleries are still finding their groove, a couple stand out. The Zulu Exclusive Gallery (407-228-1747; Home - ZuluOrlando) specializes in a primitive-gone-modern school of African sculpture known as Shona. And Keila Glassworks (407-590-3901; Keila Glassworks) has honed a unique style of groovy shapes and sensual colors; many of the pieces are created in the studio and sold in the adjoining gallery.
2 p.m.
7) A SPOT OF TEA
Even if you're not into eating sprouts or saving the planet, there's plenty to appreciate at the Dandelion Communitea Cafe (618 North Thornton Avenue, 407-362-1864; www.dandelioncommunitea.com). There is the funky, artsy décor with hand-painted chairs and fabric-covered ceiling. There's the menu, which includes the outstanding Happy Hempy Hummus ($6), topped with hemp seeds, and an upscale version of a Fluffer Nutter sandwich ($7.50), made with almond butter and served on toasted sourdough bread. And finally, there's the tea service ($2.50 to $3.50), with an amazing assortment of green, black, white and herbal teas, with names like Morockin' Mint and Don't Be Chai.
4 p.m.
8) LITERARY BREAK
In Thornton Park — an old pedestrian-friendly neighborhood in downtown Orlando — Urban Think! (625 East Central Boulevard, 407-650-8004; www.urbanthinkorlando.com) is the kind of independent bookstore that, sadly, is a vanishing species. It has a smart selection of children's books, hard-to-find magazines and gay fiction, and the comfy chairs make for a welcome midday break. Afterward, take a leisurely stroll through the area, and pop into boutiques like Zou Zou (2 North Summerlin Avenue, 407-843-3373), which carries women's designer clothing, or a wine bar like Dexter's (808 East Washington Street, 407-648-2777; www.dexwine.com).
7 p.m.
9) A PRESCRIPTION FOR DINNER
Residents are still buzzing about Doc's Restaurant (1315 South Orange Avenue, 407-839-3627; www.docsrestaurant.com), a sophisticated addition to the city's otherwise ho-hum dining scene. A soaring space with wood tones and polished concrete floors, it is partly owned by a physician (hence the name), but the real attraction is Neil Connolly, a former chef for the Kennedy family (his cookbook “In the Kennedy Kitchen” has just been published; DK Publishing, $35). The eclectic menu includes a lobster stew ($8 a cup), buttery sushi ($15 for a “tuna snowball” appetizer) and filet mignon ($35) — all executed with contemporary flair.
10 p.m.
10) TAKING IT TO THE BANK
Forget Downtown Disney. The real late-night scene is in downtown Orlando, an emerging hot spot with clubs that cater to a young, party-loving crowd. For something on the more grown-up side, step downstairs to Tanqueray's (100 South Orange Avenue, 407-649-8540). The popular nightspot is housed in a former bank vault and has the secluded feel of a speakeasy. And true to the establishment's name, you can order a martini with Tanqueray gin ($7). The club also plays host to local bands — mostly with a rock or bluesy vibe — on weekends.
Sunday
10 a.m.
11) LAKESIDE STROLL
Sure, you can set sail at Lake Eola. But instead of renting one of the swan-shaped paddleboats, you might be better off walking the lake's nearly milelong perimeter, taking in the serene beauty of the urban greenspace, which includes an amphitheater and a children's playground. On Sundays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., check out a small farmers' market on the south side, where vendors sell fresh-brewed coffee, fruits, vegetables and baked goods.
Noon
12) AN ARTFUL CONCLUSION
No visit to the “other” Orlando would be complete without a stop at the Mennello Museum of American Art (900 East Princeton Street, 407-246-4278; www.mennellomuseum.org; admission $4). The small lakeside museum lays claim to a big treasure: the largest collection of works by the folk artist Earl Cunningham, whose colorful paintings on masonite display a kind of modernist passion. The serenely illuminated galleries are as far removed from the hustle and bustle of the theme parks as you can imagine.
36 Hours in Orlando, Fla. - New York Times
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