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Cash for clunkers anyone?

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  • #16
    Glad to hear it worked out for you. I never got waited on by a salesperson after being there for almost an hour. I guess you are right they have forgotten what it was like or maybe they fired everyone and now have no one to help you.

    Either way, I am happy to report that the dealer seems to have figured out the problem and it is only going to cost $400 to fix.

    So forget the cash for clunkers for me for now. It wasn't a good deal for us anyway. Maybe I'll trade ours in next year when everyone defaults on their car loans and get a repo deal.

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    • #17
      Our son finalized his deal two weeks ago on the day they ran out of money and he week the dealer rebate was ending. He bought a new car because of the cash for clunkers rebate plus a dealer rebate. He has always owned old cars that need repairs. This is his first new car and although not his top choice his decision was based on his out of pocket cost,insurance,safety features and future resale value.
      The two he looked at were a Nissan Versa or Hyundai Accent because of dealer $2k rebate plus the $4500.. His out of pocket for a new brand new car would be $5-$7k which is what a decent used car costs.
      He ended up with an Elantra and got $6500 off for a brand new car the night they froze the program. His 1991 car with 180K miles would have never been worth the $4500 he got for it which is what he paid for it 9 years ago and is the sole reason he opted for the CFC program. Sad to see the old car go he put so much sweat equity into it and kept him safe through college plus 5 years.

      I heard on the radio this week that it is not legal for the dealers to make someone sign a form that says they owe the rebate money to the dealer if the government does not pay the dealer so watch the paperwork.

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      • #18
        I drove my '94 Ford Explorer with the check engine light on for the last five years before I sold it....it was due to the smog controls here in Cali. I would go get it turned off before my smog check and it always passed. Then sure enough the light would come right back on. I gave up on trying to 'fix' it...it was just a bug.


        Originally posted by chriskre
        Glad to hear it worked out for you. I never got waited on by a salesperson after being there for almost an hour. I guess you are right they have forgotten what it was like or maybe they fired everyone and now have no one to help you.

        Either way, I am happy to report that the dealer seems to have figured out the problem and it is only going to cost $400 to fix.

        So forget the cash for clunkers for me for now. It wasn't a good deal for us anyway. Maybe I'll trade ours in next year when everyone defaults on their car loans and get a repo deal.
        "If a Nation expects to be ignorant and free in a state of civilization, it expects what never was and never will be.... If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
        -- Thomas Jefferson to Col. Yancey, 1816

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        • #19
          Originally posted by 4ARedOctober
          I drove my '94 Ford Explorer with the check engine light on for the last five years before I sold it....it was due to the smog controls here in Cali. I would go get it turned off before my smog check and it always passed. Then sure enough the light would come right back on. I gave up on trying to 'fix' it...it was just a bug.
          I was thinking to do the same thing. I drove a car with the check engine light on for 50K miles until I traded it in. Seems it goes on when a certain mileage is reached and it means nothing. But my 73 year old Mom freaked out and wants it off.

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