Rabbit resistant flowers?

[vintner Super Moderator Find all posts View Profile Close vintner]

Last year our bunny population was down, this year I am getting worried again. Maybe time to locate holes or nests, or find a fox to bring in for a feast.

I have a fence with the veggies protected inside and the tulips, lilies and some other flowers in the fence enclosure. Problem is I want more permanent growth outside of the fence. Hostas do fine, as do the day lilies, but I want more. I like bulb flowers since they pop up and give me a green and then flower show all year.

Any suggestion of nice flowering plants that are rabbit resistant for a zone 4 area?

[lawren2 Malibu Beach Barbie & A Super Moderator Find all posts View Profile Close lawren2]

I don't know about bulbs other than daffodils which no one eats but I know a couple of perennials that do the trick.

Yarrow
Aster
Foxglove
Cranesbill Geranium
Iris

[vintner Super Moderator Find all posts View Profile Close vintner]

I would love (for time and energy) to put in a berm between a low juniper and a tree, probably be 4' wd X 6' long. On the berm I have been thinking of seasonal blooming plants. Daffodils would work for spring (tulips are bunny tasty, so won't work), thought of possibly putting in some roses, peonies, maybe some lilies. Can't go too much, will not be a big berm.

[RESORT2ME Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RESORT2ME]

Read Rabbits Management Guidelines--UC IPM

Fence and pellet rifle work well since the fox went away.
I have an idea he ate well as this Spring I see no rabbits.

Deer are more problem. Livng close to National Battlefields doesn't help that any.

[vintner Super Moderator Find all posts View Profile Close vintner]

If this wasn't a forum where lots of people could read it, I would say how the rabbit population was reduced (second suggestion of your first line) but I can't say that where people may be upset with that method.

On a side note, I planted my tomatoes couple nights ago and they all look good today. These are mostly Romeo tomatoes, very meaty and larger than the Roma tomatoes. Going to make spaghetti sauce this year.

[shaggy Moderator Find all posts View Profile Close shaggy]

I'm just learning so I can't help. My neigghbor put snail bait out for my hostas as the slugs will get em. I now have little green sprouts om somethings coming up in my garden. shaggy

[RESORT2ME Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RESORT2ME]

Survival of the fittest

Don,

Having opinions and freedom to voice them is so great. Not meaning to offend by offering suggestions to you.

I spoke to soon though. Tonight I see one medium sized rascal out front. Now the challenge begins again.
I figure when there's one, others are lurking.

Maybe Mr fox has a hungry family nearby.

[RESORT2ME Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RESORT2ME]

Deer Resistant Plants - by Viettes

I know you are asking about "resistant to rabbits", but thought I'd share this also. Just ran across it.
I'll continue trying to find a similar list for rabbits.

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The resistance to deer damage is related to the availability of other food.

During periods with heavy snows and in areas of little food, the deer could be forced to eat plants that are normally considered resistant to deer foraging.
The following is a list of plants that the Viettes have compiled that are seldom, rarely or never eaten by deer:

List by categories

1. Annuals and Biennials
2. Herbaceous Perennials, Grasses, Ferns, and Bulbs
3. Perennial Groundcovers
4. Perennial Vines
5. Trees, Shrubs, and Evergreens
*Starred plants are considered to be most resistant to deer browsing.
Annuals and Biennials

Ageratum houstonaianum - Ageratum
Antirrhinum majus - Snapdragon
Begonia x semperflorens-cultorum - Wax Begonia
Calendula officinalis - Pot Marigold
Cleome hasslerana - Spider flower
Dahlia sp. - Dahlia
Datura sp. - Downy thorn apple
Digitalis sp - Foxglove
Gaillardia pulchella - Blanket Flower
Heliotropium arborecens - Heliotrope
Hypoestes phyllostachya - Polka-Dot Plant
Ipomoea sp. - Morning Glory
Lobelia erinus - Edging Lobelia
Lobularia maritima - Sweet Alyssum
Mirabalis jalapa - Four-0'Clock
Myosotis sylvatica - Forget-Me-Not
Ocimum basilicum - Sweet Basil
Papaver sp. - Poppy
Pelargonium x hortorum - Zonal geranium
Petroselinum crispum - Parsley
Salvia farinacea - Blue Salvia
Senecio cineraria - Dusty Miller
Silybum sp. - Thistle
Tagetes sp. - Marigold
Verbena x hybrida - Verbena
Zantedeschia spp. - Calla LIly


Herbaceous Perennials, Grasses, Ferns, and Bulbs

Achillea sp. - Yarrow, Sneezeweed
Aconitum - Monkshood
Agapanthus - African Lily
Allium schoenoprasum - Chives
Allium sp. - Ornamental Onions
Allium tuerosum - Garlic Chives
Alyssum saxatile - Basket of Gold
Amsonia tabernaemontana - Blue Star
Anemone sp. - Anemones
Angelica archangelica - Angelica
Aquilegia canadensis - Columbine
Arabis - Rock Crest
Arisaema triplyllum - Jack-in-the-Pulpit
Armeria - Sea Thrift
Artemisia sp. - Wormwood
Aruncus dioicus - Goatsbeard
Asarum - Wild Ginger
* Asclepias tuberosa - Butterfly Weed
Asperula odorata (Gallium) - Sweet Woodruff
* Astilbe sp. - Astilbe
* Athyrium - Japanese Painted/Lady Fern
Baptisia sp. - False Indigo
Bergenia sp. - Bergenia
Boltonia asteroides - Boltonia
Calluna sp. - Heather
Campanula carpatica - Carpathian Bellflower
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides - Plumbago
Chelone sp. - Turtlehead
Chrysanthemum coccineum (Tanicetum) - Painted Daisy
Chrysanthemum parthenium - Feverfew
Chrysanthemum maximum (Leucanthemum) - Shasta Daisy
* Chrysogonum - Goldenstar
* Cimicifuga racemosa - Bugbane
* Colchicum - Colchicum
Coreospis sp. - Coreposis
Delphinium - Delphinium
Dennstaedia punctiloba - Hay-scented Fern
* Diantus sp. - Sweet William, pinks
Dicentra exima - Bleeding heart
* Dictamnus albus - Gas Plant
Digitalis - Foxglove
* Dryopteris - Fern
Echinacea purpurea - Purple Coneflower
Echinops sp. - Globe Thistle
* Epimedium - Barrenwort
Erica sp. - Heath
* Eupatorium sp. - Joe-Pye Weed
* Euphorbia sp. - Spurge
Festuca - Fescue
* Filipendula sp. - Queen-of-the-Prairie
Fritallaria imperialis - Crown Imperial
Geranium - Geranium
Geum sp. - Avens
Gypsophila paniculata - Baby's breath
Helianthus spp. - Sunflower family
* Helleborus sp. - Hellebore
Hyacinthus - Hyacinth
* Iberis sempervirens - Candytuft
Iris species - Iris
Kirengeshoma palmata - Yellow Waxbells
Kniphofia spp. - Red-hot Poker
Lamium - Dead Nettle
* Lavandula sp. - Lavender
Liatris spicata - Spike Gayfeather
Lilium lancifolium - Tiger Lily
Limonium latifolium - Statice
Linaria sp. - Toadflax
Linum perenne - Perennial Blue Flax
Lupinus sp. - Lupine
Lychnis - Campion
Lythrum sp. - Loosestrife
* Matteuccia pennsylvania - Ostrich Fern
* Mentha sp. - Mint
Mitchella repens - Partridge-berry
Monarda didyma - Beebalm
Myosotis scorpiodes (palustris) - true Forget-Me-Not
Myrrhis odorata - Sweet Cicely
* Narcissus sp. - Daffodil
Nepeta sp. - Catmint
Oenothera sp. - Evening Primrose
Oenothera tetragona - Sundrops
* Onoclea sensibilis - Sensitive Fern
Origanum sp. - Oregano
* Osmunda cinnamomea - Cinnamon Fern
* Osmunda claytoniana - Interrupted Fern
* Osmunda regalis - Royal Fern
Papaver orientale - Oriental Poppy
* Perovskia - Russian Sage
Phalaris arundinacea 'Picta' - Ribbon Grass
Platycodon grandiflorus - Balloon Flower
Polemonium caeruleum - Jacob's Ladder
* Polystichum acrostichoides - Christmas Fern
Potentilla sp. - Cinquefoil
Primula sp. - Primrose
Pulmonaria sp. - Lungwort
Ranunculus sp. - Buttercup
* Rheum sp. - Rhubarb
Rosmarinus officinalis - Rosemary
Salvia sp. - Sage
* Santolina - Lavender Cotton
Saponaria sp. - Soapwort
Scilla sp. - Scilla
Solidago sp. - Goldenrod
Stachys byzantina - Lamb's Ear
Stokesia - Stoke's Aster
* Tanactum sp. - Tansy
* Thelypteris noveboracensis - New York Fern
Thymus - Thyme
Tiarella - Foam Flower
* Tradescantia - Spiderwort
* Trillium spp. - Wake-Robin
Valeriana - Valerian
* Verbascum sp - Mullein
Veronica latifolia - Hungarian Speedwell
Vinca major - Greater Periwinkle
Viola labridorica - Labrador Violet
* Yucca sp. - Yucca


Perennial Ground Covers

Aegopodium podagraria - Bishop's Weed
Ajuga reptans - Bugleweed
Asperula oderata (Gallium) - Sweet Woodruff
Convalaria majallis - Lily-of-the-Valley
* Epimedium sp. - Barrenwort
Lamium sp. - Dead Nettle
Pachysandra terminalis - Japanese Pachysandra
Vinca minor - Periwinkle


Perennial Vines

* Celastrus sp. - Bittersweet
Clematis sp. - Clematis
* Lonicera sp. - Honeysuckle
* Wisteria sp. - Wisteria


Trees, Shrubs, and Evergreens

* Abies species - Fir
Berberis spp. - Barberry
Berberis vulgaris - Common Barberry
Betula papyrifera - Paper Birch
Betula pendula - European White Birch
Buddleia - Butterfly Bush
* Buxus sempervirens - Common Boxwood
* Calastrus scandens - American Bittersweet
Caryopteris clethra - Blue Beard
* Catalpa bignoniodes - Common Catalpa
* Cercis canadensis - Red Bud
* Clethra - Sweet Pepper Bush
* Cornus florida - Flowering Dogwood
* Cornus kousa - Japanese Dogwood
* Cornus sericea - Red Osier Dogwood
Cotinus coggygria - Smoke tree
* Crataegus spp. - Hawthorn
Cytissus spp. - Broom
* Elaeagnus angustifolia - RussianOlive
Enkianthus campanulatus - Redvein Enkianthus
* Fagus sylvatica - European Beech
Forsythia spp. - Forsythia
Ginkgo biloba - Maidenhair Tree
Gleditsia triacanthos - Honey Locust
Hibiscus syriacus - Rose-of Sharon
* Ilex cornuta - Chinese Holly
* Ilex glabra - Inkberry
* Ilex opaca - American Holly
* Juniperus chinensis - Chinese Junipers
* Kalmia latifolia - Mountain Laurel
Kolkwitzia amabilis - Beautybush
Leucothoe fontanesiana - Drooping Leucothoe
* Maclura pomifera - Osage Orange
Myrica spp. - Bayberry
* Picea abies - Norway Spruce
* Picea glauca - White Spruce
* Picea pungens - Colorado Blue Spruce
* Pieris japonica - Japanese Andromeda
* Pinus mugo - Mugo Pine
* Pinus nigra - Austrian Pine
* Pinus resinosa - Red Pine
* Pinus rigida - Pitch Pine
* Pinus sylvestris - Scots Pine
* Prunus serrulata - Japanese Flowering Cherry
* Salix matsudana 'Tortuosa' - Corkscrew Wilow
Sambucus racemosa - Elderberry
* Sassafras albidum - Common Sassafras
* Syringa vulgaris - Common Lilac
Thuja spp. - Arbovitae
Viburnum - Virburnum
* Wisteria floribunda - Japanese Wisteria

[vintner Super Moderator Find all posts View Profile Close vintner]

Great list Robert. I have planted some dahlias in the front yard where they should look very nice. Glad they are on the list. Now I need to figure out how to over winter them.

[RESORT2ME Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RESORT2ME]

Growing Dahlias - By Jack Kerrigan

Dahlias are considered one of the most spectacular garden flowers. They are also thought to require a great deal of care. Both of these statements are true to some extent.

There is a great variety of form in dahlias, from the showy dinner-plate size to the bright, little single ones. Dahlias require some special care, especially lifting for winter storage. However, with minimum care, beautiful dahlia blooms will grace your garden from July until frost. Dahlias should be planted in a sunny location. The soil should be rich and well-drained with a pH of about 6.5. Wait until all danger of spring frost is past before planting.

Bedding dahlias can be planted 9 to 12 inches apart. The smaller- flowering types, which are usually about three feet tall, should be spaced two feet apart. The taller, larger-flowered dahlias should be spaced three feet apart. Dig the planting hole slightly larger than the root ball of the plant and incorporate some compost or sphagnum peat moss into the soil. Plant dahlias so the crowns are just above soil level. Tall, large-flowered cultivars will require support. Place stakes (five to six feet tall) around plants at planting time and tie stems to them as the plants grow.

Dahlias tend to have shallow roots so be careful when cultivating. About the end of June, mulch plants with well-aged compost, aged manure, peat, or straw. Water plants regularly if rain is insufficient but avoid wetting the foliage.

Dahlias require a rich soil; a commercial fertilizer low in nitrogen, such as a 5-20-20, worked into the soil a month before planting is good preparation. As plants grow, a monthly feeding will encourage large blooms. If using a granular fertilizer, water it in thoroughly after application. Do not fertilize dahlias after mid-August.

When the plants reach a height of three to four inches, pinch the terminal bud just above the second pair of leaves. This will produce two main stems. When flower buds are visible, begin disbudding. This will increase the bloom size of the leader bud and improve the flower stem formation. Flower buds come in three's. The central leader bud will produce the largest bloom. There will be a smaller flower bud on each side of the leader bud. Remove these side buds by pinching or cutting to the base of the leaf axil. Further down the same stem, two more buds will be found in the leaf axils and these, too, should be removed.

Flowers should be cut when fully opened. Early morning cutting will provide the longest lasting cut flowers. As soon as you cut the bloom, plunge the stem into water. Major pests of dahlias include aphids and slugs early in the growing season, and mites in mid- to late-summer. Thrips, earwigs, caterpillars, and wasps may occasionally attack dahlias. Consult your county Extension agent for recommended controls. Leafspot and dahlia wilt also can be problematic. Should the leaves yellow in a random pattern, submit a sample for diagnosis. A plant with a viral infection should be removed from the garden immediately. Also, destroy plants with abnormal or deformed crowns.

Lift dahlias after the first frost or before the end of October. Before lifting tubers, remove all ties. Stakes should be cleaned, repaired, and stored. Attach name labels to the base of the main stem of named cultivars. Cut the foliage off so that there remains a three to four inch stem on the roots. Because tubers may have spread quite a distance, begin digging far enough from the plant so as not to damage them. A spading fork or spade works well for this task. For easier lifting make several cuts into the soil with the fork or spade around the clump and gently pry to raise the tubers intact.
Once the tubers are out of the soil, remove as much soil as possible without damaging the tubers. Turn the tubers upside down to drain the stem and allow the soil to dry. When dry, remove the remainder of the soil. Soil may also be washed from the tubers with water under pressure. Cut off any small roots. Remove and discard tubers that are damaged or diseased, and dust any cut surfaces with sulfur. Place the tubers in wooden flats, bushel baskets, or cardboard boxes that have a few inches of peat moss, sawdust, or vermiculite in the bottom. Then cover them with the same packing material, leaving the stems exposed. A little moisture may be added to prevent shriveling. Place the packed tubers in a dry, 40 F to 55 degrees F location.
Check tubers in a few weeks and again in January for signs of shriveling or fungal infection. Add a small amount of moisture if shriveling has occurred. Do not expect 100 percent survival.

Bring the tubers out of storage in March or April and locate eyes on each tuber. With a sharp knife, divide the tubers with a portion of crown attached, so that each piece has an eye. If eyes are not evident, place the tubers in moist leaf mold, peat, or soilless mix. In a week or two the eyes will appear. Pot the divisions in a sterilized, soilless mix or porous potting soil with the crown above the potting medium. Provide the potted divisions with maximum sunlight and a temperature of about 55 degrees F. Water when the potting mix dries to a depth of one inch. Good ventilation will help prevent disease.
Cuttings may be taken from new growth but do not cut below the first set of leaves. Cuttings should be three to four inches long.

Dahlias may also be propagated from seed. This method is used most often for bedding dahlias. Because of cross-pollination, they will not come true to cultivar. Harvest seeds in September and October. Cut the ripened flower heads open and lay them out to dry on shallow trays. When dry, the seeds will readily separate form the chaff. Store them in sealed containers. Seeds can be sown indoors in February or March; germination takes about one week.
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It is a lot of chore. I hope you enjoy. Post photos!